Sicily proved to be a lot more densely populated than we expected and progress towards Trampini for the ferry to Tunisia was slowed by one coastal town running into the next in the very same manner as the Italian Riviera. When we eventually got up on an autostrada we made good progress with Mt Etna smoking to our left just as Vesuvius had as we were approaching Naples. Trampini was a charming old port town and its center, where our hotel was situated, seemed to be a tourist attraction for affluent Italians who were strolling up and down its streets at night.