The road north of Acapulco proved to be excellent and a real treat to
ride. Above Manzinilla in particular it was excellent with a good surface as
it wound its way by the coast. At Mazatlan we caught the ferry for LA Paz on
the Baja Peninsula. As ever there is always a magic about rolling up to a
ferry on a bike. While we waited for the ferry to leave another group of bikes
arrived. Andy on a K1200RS and Joe on a Ducati along with two other friends
on Harleys were on their way back to the States after having toured northern
Mexico. Over the course of the next few days on the ship and up the Baja our
paths crossed many times and we had some enjoyable chats. The overnight ferry
crossing across the Sea of Cortez was a very relaxing affair as we sailed
across a calm sea in a late afternoon sun reading on deck and just kicking
back. Bob even spotted a whale at one stage, but then again he was always
observant as on another occasion he saw a tarantula on the road up from
Acapulco which neither John nor I noticed anything. Landing in La Paz early the next
morning we headed north that day with Loreto, the old capital of California
as our destination. The southern half of the peninsula is far more picturesque
and dramatic than the northern half. As we headed north we passed beautiful
coves and many of these were populated by snowbirds. These are Americans who
have sold their houses and bought camper vans and now spend the year
following the good weather. To call these vehicles camper vans, however, is
not to do them justice. They are literally bigger than buses and have every
imaginable convenience. They tow equally dear vehicles and boats behind them
and must cost in many cases over a quarter of a million all told. San Ignatio
is perhaps the most beautiful of the missionary churches that are all over
California, surrounded as it is by an oasis of trees in a desert
landscape. The terrain here is quintessential Indian landscape as we see it on
the cowboy films with cacti and mountains and scrub land. Cativana is the
traditional dividing point of the two halves of the peninsula and as there is
no stops for a long distance past it we called into the only hotel there for
the night. Because of the popularity of this area with bikers from the states
it was virtually full of various biking groups from Pancho Villa Tours to
various numbers of friends. A very affluent place it turned out to be a great
over night stay among fellow souls.
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